Dryphta Lures- No.1 The Scraprap

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dryphta
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Dryphta Lures- No.1 The Scraprap

Post by dryphta » Fri Feb 10, 2012 12:49 am

After being a member on here for a while and looking through all your guys' lures, i was inspired and had to give it a go myself. Grabbed me some scrap pine and a file and this is what i came up with, basic i know, but its a start. Kinda looks like CD5, hence the name
lol
IMG_04661.jpg
For the paint i'm probably just gonna use what i have around here. What is the best spray primer/undercoat i could use (thats fairly cheap?) After the paint i am going to use clear polyurethane satin or estapol gloss for the top coat.

Heres a couple more blanks i knocked up as well, going to make these more deep diving models i think. Do you think that will work with a screw eye for the tow point on the nose, as apposed to on the bib like a usual trout minnow? Still trying to figure out how to use the wire through method on such a small lure. I blame this website and you guys for getting me into this!!!
IMG_04681.jpg
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diemai
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Re: Dryphta Lures- No.1 The Scraprap

Post by diemai » Fri Feb 10, 2012 10:12 pm

@ dryptha

For a "real" deep diver" you won't get around a tow eye placed on the rather forward pointing bib , ......thus a thru-wire form might be required .

But I know , that many of your local Australian lures just have an "omega" clip on their bib for a line tie , ......naturally the bib must be glued in thoroughly(at least with some holes through it's base for the glue to bond better) , .....even better it should be secured with at least one small woodscrew or a crosswise pin leading through body and bib .

But off course this also requires a rigid bib material , polycarbonate(lexan , makrolon) or aluminium sheet(bigger , more buoyant lures only) .

Sorry , I can't help you about paints , dunno your local brands , .....I'm using an acrylic white primer , that also fills up small imperfections in the wood , yet can be sanded over , .......applied by brush , not sprayed .

Concerning the topcoat , I've never used polyurethane , though I consider it to be suitable ,....UNLESS it does not react with your color paints underneath , ....some topcoats do dissolve paint designs and smear them , ........I know of modelling dope , but I've also used one strange automotive clear coat , that I came across years ago , ........nowadys I'm using epoxy only , ........nevertheless I like to seal off my paint designs with ordinary acrylic clear(also my permanent marker's signatures) before applying any other more rigid topcoat laquer .

Good luck thumbsupsmilie , .........and welcome to the addict's circle , mate lol , ........cheers , diemai howdy
Hurts so bad living in a loony bin !

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dryphta
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Re: Dryphta Lures- No.1 The Scraprap

Post by dryphta » Sun Feb 12, 2012 2:49 pm

Cheers mate, i have alot to learn, and i think i have come to the right place. Will look into the omega clip, though i am working on another lure and going to try wire through, following the step by step construction tutorial by dan. I'm lucky i know somebody who owns a plastic company, so i should have a wide range of bib materials and thicknesses.
I think the acrylic primer is a must, i tried painting one that i sanded completely smooth, but with each coat the imperfections were more visible. Can modelling dope be used before the primer and paint, or is this just when using balsa?
Thanks for your help

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Re: Dryphta Lures- No.1 The Scraprap

Post by diemai » Sun Feb 12, 2012 5:22 pm

@ dryphta

I'm pretty sure , that you can use diluted modelling dope as a sealer on any kind of timber , provided that it is not too oily or contains too much resin , .........but I haven't tried it intensely yet , ........Mully had suggested it in here a while ago .

BUT , ........once I've tried sealing some blanks of local pinewood and teakwood with white modelling dope(yes , it's available in different colors as well) only to find , that it did not adhere well and I could peel it off in large chips .

I'm thinking , that it had to do with the containing color pigments , dunno for sure , ........at least the clear modelling dope did adhere much better , ......just wanted to try white dope to save time on further priming .

Once the modelling dope has sufficiently cured , it should not react with any following paints anymore ,.... it's containing strong solvents would have entirely evaporated .

Ask your "plastic" mate about details of his plastic material , .......the bib material must not be subject to easy breakage , ....nothing more annoying than having a bib breaking off a lure .

Otherwise it should not be a problem to obtain clear polycarbonate on Ebay , ...at least it's not over here .

good luck , mate , .........cheers , diemai howdy
Hurts so bad living in a loony bin !

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Re: Dryphta Lures- No.1 The Scraprap

Post by SNAFU » Thu Feb 16, 2012 7:20 am

dryphta wrote:. I blame this website and you guys for getting me into this
lol lol yeh they did that to me to mate,ya can't get out of it now......nice job on ya lure mate..be a good bream slayer i reckon clapclap

SNAF!!!

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diemai
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Re: Dryphta Lures- No.1 The Scraprap

Post by diemai » Thu Feb 16, 2012 8:08 pm

SNAFU wrote:
dryphta wrote:. I blame this website and you guys for getting me into this
lol lol yeh they did that to me to mate,ya can't get out of it now......nice job on ya lure mate..be a good bream slayer i reckon clapclap

SNAF!!!

If I should be guilty as well , ......I deeply apologize bowsmilie bowsmilie bowsmilie lol !

greetz , Dieter howdy
Hurts so bad living in a loony bin !

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