Mully gave me this hint about modelling dope months ago and since I am using it as an added topcoat , as it seems to cure a bit harder , that my epoxy topcoat does .
This stuff is originally meant to be used on model aircraft to treat the paper or textile tissue put over the wing frame constructions , .........it causes the tissue to pull together to make up for a firm and rigid surface . Model makers also use it to seal off their balsa wood constructions , apart from clear it is also available in various colors .
I guess for sealing lure blanks purposes it should be thinned(special thinner available , just turpentine doesn't work , at least not with my local brand) , so that the stuff would penetrate the wood better , might also be better to let the blank soak into the stuff for a little while to enter deeper , .........but I really don't have any experience with this method , as I have only used different sealing methods so far !
As a topcoat it is only suitable for lures targeting toothless species in my opinion , as the single layers come out quite thin , but hard .
For local European pike I prefer a thicker topcoat of epoxy , ......but I often still apply modeling dope on top of it , as it cures harder .
The stuff is quite smelly and dries very fast , ........it could affect , dissolve or smear paint designs of solvent based color paints , as it contains a strong solvent as well , ........since I am using solvent based paints on my lures I need to protect my paint jobs with two layers of acrylic clear at first , this way also my permanent felt pen signature can't get messed up .
Here in Central Europe most builders use epoxy as a topcoat(not ordinary epoxy glue , as this yellows after a while) , in Scandinavia(Finland) people use clear concrete laquer frequently to dip on a glass hard topcoat , ........unfortunately there seems to be a little mystery about this stuff and it seems to be hard to obtain over here ,...... haven't found it yet .
For sealing off the nude wood blanks some guys also use a stuff called probionate , ........these are plastic pellets to be dissolved in a strong solvent(acetone , etc .) , ........the lure blank is dipped into the liquid several times(very thin mixture at first for deeper penetration , finally a few times into a little thicker mixture to create a sandable primer surface for painting) .
I have come to use ordinary liquid woodsealer , widely available over here for outdoors purposes like fences or timber sheds , etc ..... !
On abachewood I also use a 50/50 mixture of boiled linseed oil and turpentine , a very time consuming method , blank soaks for three to six days and dries 2 to 3 weeks before painting . This method does not work on all kinds of timber , also it could cause reaction with solvent based paints to yellow the lure after a year or two !
To learn more about luremaking please check http://www.tacklemaking.com
, to learn more about crankbait dynamics you may have a look into the "crankbait ABC's" at http://www.crankbaitcentral.com
good luck , diemai