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Re: Step By Step Lure Construction

Posted: Wed May 12, 2010 1:07 am
by WRAPPER
Mully , Diemai thanks for your help and advice clapclap l picked up a dremel yesterday and had a play today cuting a groove for the wire.
1 st mistake iidiot used a router bite instead of a cutting wheel on my 1st atemped zippedsmilie next 4 turned out good
2 nd mistake not cleaning up my mess ,the wife came out to the shed to see what l'd been up too only to discover all the stuff she had stored in there covered in saw dust smckin ha ha o well.
tomorrow l hope to seal them l was told to just dip them is this right ???
will put some pict of my progress up soon
cheers wrapper howdy

Re: Step By Step Lure Construction

Posted: Wed May 12, 2010 1:11 am
by Mully
modell dope is a great dip or just use an undercoat depending what you want to do mate i liked the modellers dope sealed like glass

Re: Step By Step Lure Construction

Posted: Wed May 12, 2010 3:20 am
by WRAPPER
Mully wrote:modell dope is a great dip or just use an undercoat depending what you want to do mate i liked the modellers dope sealed like glass
Mully modell dope where do you get that from a hardware store ?

Re: Step By Step Lure Construction

Posted: Wed May 12, 2010 3:25 am
by Mully
model shops model cars boats planes etc some hardware shops have it if i recall banner has it in their hobby section balsa wood area....

Re: Step By Step Lure Construction

Posted: Wed May 12, 2010 1:26 pm
by diemai
@ WRAPPER

Mully gave me this hint about modelling dope months ago and since I am using it as an added topcoat , as it seems to cure a bit harder , that my epoxy topcoat does .

This stuff is originally meant to be used on model aircraft to treat the paper or textile tissue put over the wing frame constructions , .........it causes the tissue to pull together to make up for a firm and rigid surface . Model makers also use it to seal off their balsa wood constructions , apart from clear it is also available in various colors .

I guess for sealing lure blanks purposes it should be thinned(special thinner available , just turpentine doesn't work , at least not with my local brand) , so that the stuff would penetrate the wood better , might also be better to let the blank soak into the stuff for a little while to enter deeper , .........but I really don't have any experience with this method , as I have only used different sealing methods so far !

As a topcoat it is only suitable for lures targeting toothless species in my opinion , as the single layers come out quite thin , but hard .

For local European pike I prefer a thicker topcoat of epoxy , ......but I often still apply modeling dope on top of it , as it cures harder .

The stuff is quite smelly and dries very fast , ........it could affect , dissolve or smear paint designs of solvent based color paints , as it contains a strong solvent as well , ........since I am using solvent based paints on my lures I need to protect my paint jobs with two layers of acrylic clear at first , this way also my permanent felt pen signature can't get messed up .

Here in Central Europe most builders use epoxy as a topcoat(not ordinary epoxy glue , as this yellows after a while) , in Scandinavia(Finland) people use clear concrete laquer frequently to dip on a glass hard topcoat , ........unfortunately there seems to be a little mystery about this stuff and it seems to be hard to obtain over here ,...... haven't found it yet .

For sealing off the nude wood blanks some guys also use a stuff called probionate , ........these are plastic pellets to be dissolved in a strong solvent(acetone , etc .) , ........the lure blank is dipped into the liquid several times(very thin mixture at first for deeper penetration , finally a few times into a little thicker mixture to create a sandable primer surface for painting) .

I have come to use ordinary liquid woodsealer , widely available over here for outdoors purposes like fences or timber sheds , etc ..... !

On abachewood I also use a 50/50 mixture of boiled linseed oil and turpentine , a very time consuming method , blank soaks for three to six days and dries 2 to 3 weeks before painting . This method does not work on all kinds of timber , also it could cause reaction with solvent based paints to yellow the lure after a year or two !

To learn more about luremaking please check http://www.tacklemaking.com , to learn more about crankbait dynamics you may have a look into the "crankbait ABC's" at http://www.crankbaitcentral.com !

good luck , diemai howdy

Re: Step By Step Lure Construction

Posted: Tue Jun 08, 2010 3:00 pm
by hazmail
Try some acetone as a thinner for 'dope'.Pete

Re: Step By Step Lure Construction

Posted: Tue Jun 08, 2010 4:08 pm
by WRAPPER
Hello everyone
l just got of the phone with our nearest model shop (1 1/4 hours away) who told me model dope is for applying as a base coat shrinks and eats into alot of paints -duh as l have read and been told by people that use it ,its good my ??? is "Do you lure makes think l should give it a go " ???
and is there aspecial way of applying it ,l would like a dip and dry methord if posible
thanks all
wrapper crazysmilie

Re: Step By Step Lure Construction

Posted: Tue Jun 08, 2010 5:39 pm
by neb
Wrapper, I use spray can primer from Bunnings, seals the would adequately...Nev

Posted: Mon Nov 08, 2010 9:11 pm
by lure crazy
Careful what hobby shop guys tell you man! The dope does eat in to some paints, but im sure Deimai will tell you which paints work for him. I use it purely to seal and harden the lure blanks, use some white talkum powder mixed in with it and dip your lure blanks in it. does the sealing, filling and priming all in one go.

Re:

Posted: Mon Nov 08, 2010 9:35 pm
by diemai
lure crazy wrote:Careful what hobby shop guys tell you man! The dope does eat in to some paints, but im sure Deimai will tell you which paints work for him. I use it purely to seal and harden the lure blanks, use some white talkum powder mixed in with it and dip your lure blanks in it. does the sealing, filling and priming all in one go.

Indeed it does dissolve and smear different paints , also unprotected pupils of stick-on lure eyes and felt pen signatures .
The recommended thinner for the stuff I'm purchasing over here is very similar to nitro-thinner(smells like it and accordingly to a member of a German site nitro-thinner can also be used to substitute the original thinner ,....... tried this and it worked out).

I assume , that modelling dope is not suitable to be used on ALL solvent based paints , not sure about waterbased acrylic paints , as I don't use these , ........what I do is to apply two coats of acrylic clear over my modelling enamels paint jobs and my felt pen signatures , also unprotected decal eyes(without a transparent coverage layer) , so following modelling dope coats won't harm these , ........but for local toothy pike I most likely use epoxy clearcoat , anyway ,......... only a few coats of dope over the epoxy , as this stuff cures still a tad harder than the epoxy , that I use .

good luck , diemai howdy