Step By Step Lure Construction

Baz

Re: Step By Step Lure Construction

Post by Baz » Sun Aug 16, 2009 3:45 pm

Caseys, it depends on the material you are using for the bib.If using aluminium I use 1mm, if using polycarbonate I use any 1mm or 2mm depending on lure size and target species.The 1mm poly is pretty tough, I have caught plenty of Cod on my home mades with the 1mm bib, but 2mm would be a better choice for large natives and more tropical species.Hope that helps.
Baz.

caseys
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Re: Step By Step Lure Construction

Post by caseys » Sun Aug 16, 2009 5:38 pm

thanks for that baz now i will just have to get some and make a few thanks agian

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Re: Step By Step Lure Construction

Post by Mully » Tue Aug 18, 2009 3:05 am

agree with Baz just use aluminium or polycarbonate dont waste time with anything else

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Re: Step By Step Lure Construction

Post by James Duke » Sun Nov 29, 2009 6:29 pm

thats great, thanks for the tutorial!!

Sorry for the questions, but what type of wire do you use, and where do you buy the poly for the bib from? When it comes to the painting, what sort of undercoat and paint do you use?

Once again, thankyou. clapclap

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Dan
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Re: Step By Step Lure Construction

Post by Dan » Mon Nov 30, 2009 7:03 pm

Gday
The wire is from a hobby store but it isn't stainless steel wire like I'm using now, i bought the stainless steel wire from do-it moulds. The poly is from Bunnings hardware. The undercoat can be modeling dope or normal primer. The best paint to use is auto acrylic thumbsupsmilie

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Capt.Seaweed
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Re: Step By Step Lure Construction

Post by Capt.Seaweed » Mon Jan 11, 2010 3:49 pm

Dan,
Thanks for all the great advice. I'm interested in re-painting alot of old timber lures, battle-scarred from over the years.
I've stripped them to bare timber, I used an enamel grey primer, turned out nice an hard and easy to sand.
Haven't attempted to topcoat any yet, is it OK to cover enamel primer with acrylic auto finish? Or will they react against each other?
Or would I be better off just topcoating with pressure-pac enamel spray?
I'm also thinking of getting really into it and get an airbrush kit for better results, waiting on an airbrush how-to book I've just ordered online.
Do you reakon go with enamel or go acrylic? Appreciate any feedback you have to offer.
Regards, Tony (Wulagi, NT).
"Always merry and bright"

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diemai
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Re: Step By Step Lure Construction

Post by diemai » Mon Jan 11, 2010 6:42 pm

@ barraguru

Don't have an airbrush myself , but I know by reading some different sites , that people are more likely to use acrylics both for air and hand brushing .

The advantages of these over solvent based paints are that they are easier to blend with one another to achieve different color tones and second is , that the equippment is easier to clean , in particular when using airbrush gear .

I am using solvent based spraycans and modelmaking enamels , this is just because years and years ago I had built up my system like this , and I don't wanna litter all my paint material and replace for acrylics , would cost me a lot of money !

good luck , diemai howdy
Hurts so bad living in a loony bin !

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fishaholiclures
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Re: Step By Step Lure Construction

Post by fishaholiclures » Mon Jan 11, 2010 7:28 pm

Tony,
Deiter posted:-
"The advantages of these over solvent based paints are that they are easier to blend with one another to achieve different color tones and second is , that the equippment is easier to clean , in particular when using airbrush gear ."

I think Dieter is refering to water based acrylics, and while they are easy to clean up, Solvent based is not much harder. The only hassle I can see is the need to seal the waterbased before applying a tough clear coat as Dieter and others have explained previously.

I have been using Auto touch up spray cans in the last couple of weeks with top results so far. To use with airbrush, remove spray nozzle, slip a length of 6mmID pvc tube over the stem and spray paint into a bottle suitabe for storing paint,(airtight, solvent proof etc)
With a fair amount in bottle, let it rest for about 20mins (temp dependant to let the gas and solvent flash off then thin 50% with appropriate acrylic thinner.
This mix sprays through both my single action suction airbrush and my double action gravity airbrush with no hassles. both types of airbrush are available at SuperCheap Auto and are equivalent to what is offered online for more $$. The gravity D/A gun takes about 2 mins to clean as the mixing is done internally and the paint cup is part of the frame. The S/A gun takes a little longer due to having to remove paint feed nozzle and tip, as well as clean the paint bottle/s if going to another colour.
The range of colours available at Auto shops should keep even the most 'out there man' hippy happy for ages. And there are a number of clear coats that are compatable including of course the Automotive ones.
Just as a note, Auto Acrylic from paint suppliers is about $30/500ml. Auto touch up cans sell @ $12/ 200g (Bris prices)
Brad
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acta non verba

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Re: Step By Step Lure Construction

Post by diemai » Mon Jan 11, 2010 8:53 pm

@ fishaholiclures

Yep , I was refering to water based paints , ..........in fact I did not even know , that there are other acrylics around than waterbased ones ??? !


greetz , diemai howdy
Hurts so bad living in a loony bin !

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fishaholiclures
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Re: Step By Step Lure Construction

Post by fishaholiclures » Mon Jan 11, 2010 9:05 pm

Deiter,
most automotive paints these days are solvent based acrylics.
The car accessory shops over here usually have good stocks of most popular colours in a range of hues. Value is quite good too, considering you are only using very small amounts through an airbrush, those 50 & 75mm lures only take up about 2 or 3 ml to cover all over. The wastage is considerable with spraying straight from aerosol can, lots of overspray and less control over coverage.

I intend to get some bigger amounts of the usual base colours from a auto spray shop I know, and stick with decanting spray cans for all the 'fun' colours.

Brad
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acta non verba

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